Why Origami? The Art of Folding Paper

Origami — the Japanese art of paper folding — has captivated people for centuries. From a simple crane to an intricate modular sphere, the possibilities are extraordinary. The best part? You need almost nothing to get started. Just paper, patience, and a willingness to follow folds.

But as any enthusiast will tell you, the paper you choose makes a big difference. Let's start there.

Choosing the Right Origami Paper

Standard Origami Paper (Kami)

This is the classic starting point. Kami is thin, lightweight (around 60–70gsm), and usually coloured on one side and white on the other. It folds cleanly and holds creases well. It's inexpensive and widely available in square packs — the ideal choice for beginners.

Washi Paper

Washi is a traditional Japanese paper made from plant fibres (such as kozo, gampi, or mitsumata). It's stronger than regular paper despite being thin, and has a beautiful texture. Washi is wonderful for display pieces but can be harder to find and more expensive. It's worth exploring once you've mastered the basics.

Duo Paper

Duo origami paper is coloured differently on each side. This opens up creative possibilities in designs where both sides of the paper become visible — many animals and modular designs benefit enormously from duo paper.

Foil Paper

Foil-backed origami paper holds sharp creases extremely well and is ideal for complex, detailed models. However, it's unforgiving — mistakes are very visible, and foil tears more easily than regular paper. Best left for intermediate and advanced folders.

What to Avoid as a Beginner

  • Regular printer paper (80gsm): Too thick and stiff — creases don't stay crisp, and multiple layers become bulky.
  • Tissue paper: Too fragile. It tears easily when folding and wet-folding techniques are being used.
  • Glossy or coated paper: Won't hold creases and tends to spring back open.

Essential Folds Every Beginner Should Learn

Before tackling any model, master these fundamental folds — they appear in virtually every origami design:

  1. Valley fold: The most basic fold. Fold the paper toward you, creating a "V" shape when viewed from the side.
  2. Mountain fold: The opposite — fold the paper away from you.
  3. Squash fold: Open a flap and flatten it symmetrically by pressing it down.
  4. Inside reverse fold: Fold a point inward between layers — essential for beaks, tails, and limbs.
  5. Outside reverse fold: Fold a point outward around layers.
  6. Petal fold: A sequence that forms a diamond shape from a flap — used in the classic crane base.

Your First Three Projects

Start simple and build confidence before moving to complex models:

  • The Classic Crane (Tsuru): The most iconic origami model. It uses the bird base and teaches several fundamental techniques. Takes about 15–20 minutes for a first attempt.
  • The Modular Cube: Made from 6 identical pieces that slot together. A great introduction to modular origami and no glue required.
  • The Jumping Frog: Fun, functional, and satisfying. Great for kids and adults alike.

Tips for Better Folding

  • Always fold on a hard, flat surface.
  • Use your fingernail or a bone folder to sharpen creases.
  • Work slowly — rushing causes misaligned folds that compound into problems later.
  • If a design isn't working, unfold and start fresh rather than trying to correct on the fly.
  • Standard squares of 15cm × 15cm are ideal for most beginner models.

Resources for Learning More

Origami diagrams use a standardised notation system called the Yoshizawa–Randlett system, so once you learn to read it, you can follow instructions from anywhere in the world. Look for books by Robert J. Lang, Kunihiko Kasahara, or Nick Robinson for structured progression from beginner to advanced.

Origami is endlessly rewarding — the more you fold, the more the paper starts to feel like a natural extension of your hands.